A day-one, week-one, and month-one plan to take control of locks, codes, garage remotes, smart devices, and monitoring before the moving boxes settle.
Before you unpack, close every old access path: rekey or replace exterior locks, reset garage opener codes and remotes, factory-reset any smart device that came with the home, change the Wi-Fi name and password, and remove unknown users. Then add entry sensors to main doors and reachable first-floor windows, one motion sensor on the main path, a camera where it answers a real question, and at least one water leak sensor near the water heater, washer, and under sinks. Review monitoring after 30 days once you know the home's patterns.
Buying the home is only the first security decision. The first 30 days after move-in are when you learn the blind spots: the side gate that does not latch, the garage door opener the previous owner forgot, the window hidden behind shrubs, the package drop zone that is visible from the street. The goal for day one is simple: make sure that old access paths are closed before a single box is unpacked.
Get a locksmith to rekey the front, back, garage entry, and any side doors the previous owner controlled. Rekeying is usually cheaper than full replacement and makes every old key useless.
Erase the old remote from the opener motor, change the keypad PIN, and pair only the remotes you own. If the keypad battery is old, replace it so a code does not get locked in by a dying unit.
Smart locks, doorbell cameras, alarm panels, thermostats, and any indoor cameras should be reset to factory defaults. Create your own owner account, change default passwords, and remove every user you did not add.
Cameras, locks, and assistants sit behind the router, so the router is part of your security plan. Use a strong WPA2 or WPA3 password, update the firmware, and put smart devices on a guest network if your router supports it.
Confirm the deadbolt throws, the sliding door has a working track lock or bar, and basement and garage-entry windows actually latch. Fix anything that wiggles before the first night.
Most new homeowners do not need a complicated setup on day one. A cleaner starting point is a sensor map of the openings a stranger would actually try: the front door, back door, garage entry, patio slider, and first-floor windows that are easy to reach from the ground. Add one motion sensor that covers the main path through the home before adding anything decorative.
| Area | What to check | What to add first |
|---|---|---|
| Front entry | Door contact, keypad spot, package view | Door/window sensor plus a keypad at shoulder height |
| Back door or slider | Latch throw, glass exposure, lighting | Door/window sensor and a glass break sensor if the pane is large |
| Garage entry | Interior door into the house, opener access, tool storage | Door/window sensor on the interior door plus one motion sensor |
| Main living area | Broad path coverage, camera privacy | One motion sensor or one indoor camera, never both in a private room |
| Laundry, kitchen, water heater | Leak risk and shutoff access | A water leak sensor under the sink, behind the washer, and near the water heater |
A camera should not be there for decoration. Put it where it helps you decide what to do: Who is at the door, did the package arrive, is the garage open, did the side gate move. Front door, driveway, detached garage, side gate, and rear entry are the usual candidates. For indoor cameras, keep them out of bedrooms and bathrooms, set clear shared-user permissions, and review how long clips are kept.
Your monitoring choice should match how you live, not what a salesperson pushes. If you work from home and rarely travel, self-monitoring with phone alerts may be enough while you learn the house. If you travel often, are mid-renovation, have a detached garage, or want someone else to call dispatch, a paid plan is worth comparing once you have lived with the system for a month.
Rekey locks, reset garage codes and remotes, factory-reset smart devices, change Wi-Fi credentials, and verify every door and reachable window latches.
Add sensors to the front door, back door, garage entry, patio slider, and easy-access windows. Place one motion sensor on the main path and a keypad by the door you use most.
Mount a camera where it answers a real question and add water leak sensors near the water heater, washer, sinks, and any basement trouble spot.
Test alarm sounds, push alerts, camera clips, and backup contacts. Decide on monitoring, add named user codes, and expand only where the home has shown real gaps.
Federal interstate moving rules, which are enforced by the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration, only apply to moves that cross state lines. A move that stays inside a single state is regulated by that state's moving and consumer protection rules, and the protections can be thinner. In practice, this means that on move-in day your security checklist does not change based on how far you moved, but the resources available to you if something goes wrong with the mover do. For an in-state move, file complaints with the state utility or transportation regulator and your state attorney general, and confirm whether your state requires movers to be licensed or to carry specific levels of insurance before you book.
SUMMARY
Day one is about closing old access: locks rekeyed, garage reset, smart devices factory-reset, Wi-Fi changed, and every exterior opening tested by hand. Week one is a small sensor map on the entries a stranger would actually try, plus a camera where it answers a real question and a leak sensor near anything that can quietly flood the house. Review monitoring at the 30-day mark, once the home has shown you its real patterns, and remember that federal interstate moving rules only cover moves that cross state lines, so an in-state move falls under your state's rules instead.
Common questions
Yes. You do not know the full key history. Previous owners, tenants, contractors, cleaners, relatives, or agents may still have copies. Rekeying makes every old key useless and is usually cheaper than replacing the hardware.
Erase the old remote from the opener motor following the manufacturer's learn button steps, change the keypad PIN, and pair only the remotes you own. If the keypad battery is old, swap it so a dying unit does not lock in a code.
Reset every device you did not set up yourself: smart locks, doorbell cameras, alarm panels, thermostats, and indoor cameras. Then change default passwords, create your own owner account, and remove every user you did not add.
Not always. Self-monitoring with phone alerts can work for a low-risk home where someone is around during the day. Professional monitoring is worth considering if you travel often, have a detached garage, are still learning the neighborhood, or want someone else to call dispatch during an alarm.
Only if your move crosses state lines. An in-state move is regulated by your state's rules, so file complaints with the state transportation or consumer protection agency and your state attorney general, and check whether your state requires movers to be licensed or insured before you book.